Sunday, June 1, 2008

Surf's Up!

The one thing the media has neglected to point out in the 2005 tsunami in South Asia is that it wasn't all negative. In fact, for a few lucky surfers, it was the gnarlyist, bitchinist wave ever.
We're talking about a tasty ride that lasted hundreds of miles. There were a few obstructions, like entire villages and drowned children everywhere, but a decent surfer could easily cut through and around them.
"Everyone else was fleeing in utter terror. I just looked at that killer wall of water and said to it, 'hey, bud, let's party,'" recalled longtime boarder Sam Sunshine.
Sunshine said he sometimes gets teary over the memory, especially its toll on the beach bars so popular with Australians.
"All those Pina Coladas, wiped out in an instant," he said, shaking his head sadly.
Sunshine said that he sometimes builds a beach fire, and younger surfers will gather around to hear tales of "the big one."
"Dudes, you just don't know what you missed," he tells them. "It was totally awesome."

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